Lighthouses of KI

Apart from the stunning beaches and vast wildlife, Kangaroo Island is also steeped in history. A great place to explore some of the island’s first beginnings is at one of the 3 lighthouses situated on the corners of KI. Having already visited Cape du Couedic in my trip to Flinders Chase I thought it was time I travelled to the other ends of the island to complete my lighthouse trilogy.

Cape Willoughby

Now I firstly have to say that I may not have picked the bets day to go visit a lighthouse as it was possibly one of the windiest days I had ever experienced. On travelling in my adorable yet rather small Nissan micra there were several times where I thought I might get blown away Wizard of Oz style. The journey was also made even more frightening when not one but two rather large kangaroos decided to cross the road as I was very nearly approaching them – thankfully everyone left unscathed and I finally reached Cape Willoughby.

Found on the most eastern point of the island and roughly 40K from Penneshaw, Cape Willoughby is the oldest lighthouse throughout South Australia. Built in 1852, the 25 metre high stone tower was used to mark the treacherous channel known as the Backstairs Passage. Having claimed many a shipwreck, it overlooks the rather aptly titled Devils Kitchen. As in all the National Parks sites on the island you will find lovely and extremely knowledge tour guides – that for 45mins will give you a delightful tour of the Lighthouse and a detailed explanation of its history.  

After enjoying your visit to the lighthouse there is also the opportunity to visit one of the many cellar doors that can be found in the surrounding areas of the Dudley Peninsula. Unfortunately travelling solo meant I couldn’t personally partake in an afternoon tipple – but as long as you make sure you are not the designated driver I very much recommend it.

Cape Borda

Having completed the east I then ventured west for Cape Borda. Found in the very depths of the Ravine des Casoars wilderness protection area the lighthouse is most commonly known for its unusual square design. As the third oldest remaining lighthouse in Australia and with a fully functioning cannon as with all the sites on the island - this continues to be an opportunity to further explore KI’s vast history.

On recommendation from two lovely ladies at Seal Bay, I was advised that the best way to experience all what Cape Borda had to offer was to stay overnight. With the area surrounded in gorgeous wilderness and with a variety of hikes and walks available, a mere day trip would simply not be enough. Therefore, having done half the drive there on the way to work I set off for my lighthouse weekend away.

On arriving at the site I was greeted by a very sweet man named Mike who not only let me fire the cannon – something which I initially thought was a joke – but also informed that I would be the only person staying there that night. Given the responsibility as lighthouse keeper I slowly began to realise that I would be the only person staying in this extremely remote and isolated are for a whole night. With what was turning out to sound like the plotline for a scary movie I decided to tackle a few hikes and take my mind off what the night may bring.

As someone with a very very basic level of fitness and with no experience of hiking I did enter Harvey’s Return with slight trepidation. However I was advised by signs that it was a moderate hike so I took comfort in this. Unfortunately, the moderate rating was a little misjudged as scaling down the old hill where supplies were winched up for lighthouse keepers was fine – climbing back up not so fun. The hike does in fact take you out to a beautiful section of Scott’s Cove and if your heart and calves are up for it – well worth a try.

On returning back to my duties as lighthouse keeper I was some ways put at ease to find two kangaroos not too far from my hut. I came to think of them as my roommates for the night and although if in danger they probably wouldn’t be much help it was nice to know I was completely alone.

Surviving the night I was braced with confidence for next two hikes ahead. The Ravine des Casoars hike can be found just before Cape Borda and is a 3 hour trek into the wilderness. With some regret that I hadn’t actually ever seen an episode of Bear Grylls I entered the unknown. The hike is actually a beautiful walk through varying terrain and ending in a gorgeous view of the coastline. With hidden caves also found at the very end I recommend bringing a torch for further exploring as opposed to the candle and matches I was given back at the lighthouse.  It is definitely an unnervingly feeling going it alone but one which actually ultimately gives you a great sense of pride and achievement in one’s own accomplishments – regardless of how small they actually be.

My second hike was Billy Goats Falls – found just as enter the Ravine des Casoars road off the playford highway. Again another steep incline which I was quickly realising I was not a fan of but again equally stunning wildlife. Unfortunately it hadn’t rained in quite a while and there was no actual waterfall to view. I did, however, see my first echnida of my trip to KI and apparently as a rare animal to find I was pretty happy with my Attenborough style skills.