KI Odysseys

During my time on the island I have been very blessed to meet a lovely lady called Bea.  She is a wonderful woman that works extremely hard and still finds time to be incredibly generous and kind. I like to refer to her as my island mum as she has looked after me and provided for me in many ways.

(She is also an excellent glass maker and please do visit her website to see her marvellous talent  http://simplybea.com/)

One such way was to enable me to experience a weekend tour with KI Odysseys http://www.kiodysseys.com.au/  -  a tour guide company run on the island specialising in 4x4 tours. By being given this opportunity I was able to explore the island from a different perspective and was taken to places that as a lone traveller I would not have been able to see.

Throughout the two days we visited not only the major tourist attractions including Seal Bay and Flinders Chase but we also were taken to hidden spots within the wilderness. With an absolutely lovely lady called Gaylene as our tour guide she took as on a hunt for wallabies, kangaroos, echidnas, koalas and a vast amount of birdlife. Of course as the extreme professional that Gaylene is she found every one!   

My highlight of the two trips by far were the lunches. Not only because of the great food they provided (including a lot of local produce) but also the incredible locations we were taken to. Our first day was at a gorgeous picnic spot out in American River overlooking the Pelican lagoon. With great local wine and even greater company (including a fantastic lady from Ireland and a sweet Italian couple) it was a lovely way to break up the day. The second day’s spot was even more special in that we were taken to a private tent in the wilderness. Like a scene from a movie we were again blessed with wonderful food and this time a collection of Australian Wrens as dinner guests.

I cannot stress enough how great Gaylene was a tour guide. She was so generous with her time and knowledge - literally the woman is an encyclopaedia of anything KI! She 100% made the trip what it was and I couldn't of asked for a better guide. 

If you are wanting to experience a more personalised trip of the island and only have a few days to do so then I would whole heartedly recommend you use KI Odysseys - just make sure you get Gaylene if you can!!

Lighthouses of KI

Apart from the stunning beaches and vast wildlife, Kangaroo Island is also steeped in history. A great place to explore some of the island’s first beginnings is at one of the 3 lighthouses situated on the corners of KI. Having already visited Cape du Couedic in my trip to Flinders Chase I thought it was time I travelled to the other ends of the island to complete my lighthouse trilogy.

Cape Willoughby

Now I firstly have to say that I may not have picked the bets day to go visit a lighthouse as it was possibly one of the windiest days I had ever experienced. On travelling in my adorable yet rather small Nissan micra there were several times where I thought I might get blown away Wizard of Oz style. The journey was also made even more frightening when not one but two rather large kangaroos decided to cross the road as I was very nearly approaching them – thankfully everyone left unscathed and I finally reached Cape Willoughby.

Found on the most eastern point of the island and roughly 40K from Penneshaw, Cape Willoughby is the oldest lighthouse throughout South Australia. Built in 1852, the 25 metre high stone tower was used to mark the treacherous channel known as the Backstairs Passage. Having claimed many a shipwreck, it overlooks the rather aptly titled Devils Kitchen. As in all the National Parks sites on the island you will find lovely and extremely knowledge tour guides – that for 45mins will give you a delightful tour of the Lighthouse and a detailed explanation of its history.  

After enjoying your visit to the lighthouse there is also the opportunity to visit one of the many cellar doors that can be found in the surrounding areas of the Dudley Peninsula. Unfortunately travelling solo meant I couldn’t personally partake in an afternoon tipple – but as long as you make sure you are not the designated driver I very much recommend it.

Cape Borda

Having completed the east I then ventured west for Cape Borda. Found in the very depths of the Ravine des Casoars wilderness protection area the lighthouse is most commonly known for its unusual square design. As the third oldest remaining lighthouse in Australia and with a fully functioning cannon as with all the sites on the island - this continues to be an opportunity to further explore KI’s vast history.

On recommendation from two lovely ladies at Seal Bay, I was advised that the best way to experience all what Cape Borda had to offer was to stay overnight. With the area surrounded in gorgeous wilderness and with a variety of hikes and walks available, a mere day trip would simply not be enough. Therefore, having done half the drive there on the way to work I set off for my lighthouse weekend away.

On arriving at the site I was greeted by a very sweet man named Mike who not only let me fire the cannon – something which I initially thought was a joke – but also informed that I would be the only person staying there that night. Given the responsibility as lighthouse keeper I slowly began to realise that I would be the only person staying in this extremely remote and isolated are for a whole night. With what was turning out to sound like the plotline for a scary movie I decided to tackle a few hikes and take my mind off what the night may bring.

As someone with a very very basic level of fitness and with no experience of hiking I did enter Harvey’s Return with slight trepidation. However I was advised by signs that it was a moderate hike so I took comfort in this. Unfortunately, the moderate rating was a little misjudged as scaling down the old hill where supplies were winched up for lighthouse keepers was fine – climbing back up not so fun. The hike does in fact take you out to a beautiful section of Scott’s Cove and if your heart and calves are up for it – well worth a try.

On returning back to my duties as lighthouse keeper I was some ways put at ease to find two kangaroos not too far from my hut. I came to think of them as my roommates for the night and although if in danger they probably wouldn’t be much help it was nice to know I was completely alone.

Surviving the night I was braced with confidence for next two hikes ahead. The Ravine des Casoars hike can be found just before Cape Borda and is a 3 hour trek into the wilderness. With some regret that I hadn’t actually ever seen an episode of Bear Grylls I entered the unknown. The hike is actually a beautiful walk through varying terrain and ending in a gorgeous view of the coastline. With hidden caves also found at the very end I recommend bringing a torch for further exploring as opposed to the candle and matches I was given back at the lighthouse.  It is definitely an unnervingly feeling going it alone but one which actually ultimately gives you a great sense of pride and achievement in one’s own accomplishments – regardless of how small they actually be.

My second hike was Billy Goats Falls – found just as enter the Ravine des Casoars road off the playford highway. Again another steep incline which I was quickly realising I was not a fan of but again equally stunning wildlife. Unfortunately it hadn’t rained in quite a while and there was no actual waterfall to view. I did, however, see my first echnida of my trip to KI and apparently as a rare animal to find I was pretty happy with my Attenborough style skills. 

Kingscote

Having now lived in Kingscote for some weeks  I have very much accepted the little town as my new home and am fitting into country living a lot easier than I thought I would. Initially the deathly quiet and incredibly dark nights did throw this city girl off abit but after being reassured that crime is such a little issue that the island only holds three policemen I soon became very at ease in life at unit no.6.  Here are a few of my highlights from the islands ‘busiest’ town:

1)      ‘The Queenie’

Now it may seem bad that my no.1 highlight is the local pub but I have met many an interesting character and enjoyed a good few nights at this unique establishment. Officially known as the Queenscliffe Hotel, but more affectionately referred to as the Queenie by the locals, is one of the few places town that stays open later than 5pm. Tuesday Schnitzel Night is a definite highlight of the week – one of which I have made every Tuesday since my first. The Norwegian Schnitzel is by far the best and a delicacy that should not be passed up.

2)      Tide Pool

Found on the coast of the Nepean Bay – Kingscote’s local swimming pool is in fact a great outdoor rock pool utilising the gorgeous coastline and tide. A perfect opportunity for snorkelling and/or a cool down after a long hot day  - perfect if the beach is just a little too far that day.

3)      Jetty

What used to be the official port of the island is now a regular hot spot for keen anglers and fisherman. Now also I officially can neither recommend nor discourage anyone from jumping off this jetty – however reliable sources tell me that it is pretty fun (especially at night time!)

4)      Reeves Point

A mere 1km from Kingscote jetty, Reeves is yet another fantastic spot to see gorgeous views of the island. With a great deal of history located in the area there is also a museum and memorial park to feed those more historical enthusiasts. I also recommend checking out the rather mystical mulberry tree found in the grounds and which has stood in that very place since the first settlement on the island.

5)      Fish & Yiros

Another two fantastic eateries in Kingscote that I couldn’t not mention are: 

Kangaroo Island Fish & Chip Shop (located next to the Caltex) which boasts a huge variety of locally caught fish either sold as it is or cooked for you in house. I highly recommend the KI Whiting or Flake – both gorgeous.

Hot Stuff – a great take out restaurant which for $10 can provide you with the tastiest chicken or Lamb Yiros you have ever had.     

Outdoor Adventures

As with many places throughout Australia there is also a wealth of opportunities in outdoor sports. There are even tours specifically on the island that focus on the great deal of outdoor pursuits that can be discovered on the island. Of course there is a great deal of swimming based sports including surfing, snorkelling, diving, body boarding the list is endless. However as I was frequently told of stories of 18 feet Great White Sharks circling the island I decided to stick to those sports on land.

Kangaroo Island Outdoor Action

Found just after Vivonne Bay, KI Outdoor Action provides a great wealth of unique options to explore the islands landscape. I decided Quad biking would be one of the options I took to see an alternative view of KI. Joining a group of just 3 of us in total (the two others being a lovely Italian couple on their honeymoon – which I felt very bad for interrupting) we mounted our bikes and were lead on a thrilling wildlife tour. Whizzing pasts Koalas, Kangaroos and wallabies the quad bike tour provided a variety of speeds and terrains in which to enjoy the varying landscape.  Having never been one for speed and as someone that didn’t venture onto the motorway till 5 years after passing her drivers license – I surprised myself at how much I enjoyed a later craved the need for speed. Quad bike is definitely now my most preferred mode of transportation.

Little Sahara

Another one of the islands ever stunning surprises – Little Sahara is a collection of huge sand dunes found tucked away just after Seal Bay. Once scaling the sand dune – something which I can assure takes great strength – the best way down is by sandboard. Welcome to BYO or hire from KI Outdoor Action it is a fantastic way to enjoy the sights and landscapes of KI. Again something one would never expect to find amongst the wildlife yet which has now been used to great advantage by thrill seekers across the island.  

(As I travelled solo I could not take a photo of myself boarding – so please accept this photo of a tourist family enjoying the dunes as a substitute)

Beaches of KI

Kangaroo Island boasts one of the most gorgeous coastlines and some of the most spectacular beaches I have ever seen. Often secluded a busy beach consists of more than 5 people! For a girl from England where if it hits 20 degrees everyone runs to Brighton to have the luxury of some beaches often to myself was simply amazing. Here are my picks of just a few of the wonderful spots on the island:

1)      Stokes Bay

By far my favourite this hidden gem on the north coast road may take a little drive but is so unbelievably worth it. Initially you pull up to what appears to be no more than a rock pool – a little deflated you look around for any signs of sand. It isn’t until you begin to see people disappear through rocks that the adventure begins. Almost like walking through a rocky magical wardrobe you walk into the most stunning beach with pure sand and closed in rock pool. A true feast for the eyes and a must see on the island.

      

2) Emu Bay

One of the only beaches that you can drive onto on the Island – Emu Bay is a perfect spot for a lazy day of swim, surf and maybe a few bevs on the beach.

 Also perhaps before your lazy day begins I would also recommend stopping off at Emu Bay Lavender where you will find a stunning shock of purple and a great café/shop selling not only good food but a wealth of lavender based items produced on that very farm.

3)      Vivonne Bay

Located only a few K’s from Seal Bay, this wonderful stretch of beach also hosts a great road side café where I highly recommend the KI Whiting Burger!!!

4)      Hanson Bay

Hanson Bay is perfect stop off on the way back from Flinders chase and has some of the whitest sand I have ever seen.  Also if you fancy spending a few more extra $ you will also find the Southern Ocean Lodge – one of the most luxurious places to stay on KI.

5)      Pennington Bay

Pennington Bay is often a favoured spot for surfing and general water sports of that nature however for those that are not that way inclined it does, like all the beaches on the island, provide glorious views and great swimming.  Also not far from the beach is Prospect Hill - a fantastic photo opportunity which once you climbed the thing provides spectacular views of the island.  

Kelly Hill Caves

Kelly Hill Caves is something I think of a hidden gem on Kangaroo Island. Although a fantastic tourist destination and one which should definitely be on the to do list, I find that for some visitors it is often over looked.

Located on the south coast rode in between Seal Bay and Flinders Chase – the caves offer an exciting underground exploration of dazzling limestone stalagmites and stalactites. With tours running throughout the day again the guides are full of fascinating information regarding the early formation and discovery of the caves.  It was in fact in the 1880’s that an unfortunate horse named Kate Kelly is said to have fallen in to the cave – luckily her rider survived yet the same cannot be said for the horse. Therefore the naming of the caves as ‘Kelly Hill’ is in commemoration of a loyal stead.

For those that experience any fear of darkness and or enclosed spaces this is not something for you – however for those really adventurous types then I would recommend not only the guided tour but also Adventure Caving.  Following the 45 minute regular tour Adventure Caving takes you on a 2 hour excavation of the caves and a real chance to explore what lies beneath! Armed with a hard hat and head lamp one squeezes and climbs into the smallest of gaps and discovers even more wondrous sights below. I had a fantastic guide in Mary who was able to impart on us a wealth of knowledge and detail of the caves.  I stress again this is not for the faint hearted but if you do get the chance a wonderful experience and definitely one of my highlights of the island so far. 

(The rather grainy picture above was taken by a lovely boy called Ben who very kindly offered to take a picture on his iphone as I stupidly forgot to take my camera when going Adventure caving. Both Ben and his father were great caving partners and I am very grateful to them for this shot!)

Flinders Chase National Park

Flinders Chases encompasses most of the western end of the island and provides yet another opportunity to see the glorious wildlife and coastal scenery of KI. I would 100% recommend you fill up will a full tank of petrol as the drive is pretty long and surprisingly petrol stations are sometimes hard to come by on the island. However once you do arrive you will be greeted again by some spectacular views and wildlife in action.

Admirals Arch

Admirals Arch offers not only the opportunity to witness a colony of New Zealand Fur Seals but also one of the most magnificent views on the island. With several viewing spots you can witness another mesmerising species of seal in their natural habitat.  

If you have the time and hopefully are not jostled by too many tourists (as this is one of the no.1 spots to visit on the island of course after Seal Bay) I would sit back and relax on one of the benches and take in not only the view but the feeling of sea air and the sounds of the waves – it is truly an incredibly relaxing experience.

Remarkable Rocks

Remarkable Rocks are a group of granite boulders fashioned in some rather unusual shapes and sizes. With some scaling up to 5 metres tall these again provide a wealth of photo opportunities for the more adventurous type. Although I must put my health and safety hat on and stress that there are no barriers and please do not try and take a chance to go close to the edge.  

Cape du Couedic

Displays a magnificent view of one of the three lighthouses built on Kangaroo Island. It also offers a variety of places to stay within park which if you do have the time I would highly recommend. Whether you prefer built accommodation or caravan park both option will then enable you to discover much more of the wildlife of the national park and hopefully the many hikes and walks on offer. 

KI Wildlife

As one would expect on island full of greenery there are many opportunities to experience animals in their natural habitat – as I have previously stated my favourite is of course Seal Bay – but here are another great few options on the island to see animals in their natural environment.

Parndana Wildlife Park

Located just 3km west of Parndana in the heart of the island, this wildlife park boasts a wealth of rare and unusual birds and animals. Initially a sanctuary for unwanted or abandoned animals the park does great work in looking after those animals that may not have made it without a little extra TLC. With a variety of native Australian animals and birds the no.1 highlight of the park has to be the opportunity to feed a collection of hand reared female kangaroos. Yes I can safely go back to England and tell all those that will listen that I have actually fed a kangaroo. (Please see below one of the only pictures I will include of myself – purely to confirm the above statement is true).  

Hanson Bay Sanctuary

Found on the way to Flinders Chase National Park (of which a post will soon follow) Hanson Bay offers a beautiful self-guided Koala Walk – where you are guaranteed to spot several Koalas in the trees. I must warn you that for an animal which sleeps for 20 hours a day – the Koala can sometimes be a little slack on the entertainment front however if you are lucky enough to find one awake they will definitely live up to their cute and cuddly image.

Kangaroo Island Penguin Centre  

On taking a walk through Kingscote and enjoying the views from the jetty – I recommend also stopping by at the Kangaroo Island Penguin Centre. Offering guided tours from 8.15 in the evening the penguin centre offers a chance to experience island wildlife at night. These rather unique tours take you searching for fairy penguins through the rocks and alcoves surrounding the jetty and enable you to witness another adorable creature in action. Penneshaw also hosts its own Penguin centre if this provides less distance for those staying closer to the ferry – my one piece of advice is to make sure you come after February so that it gives the little penguins time to return from their travels out to sea. 

(Unfortunately in order not to disturb the penguins photos could not be taken - therefore I'm afraid a rather shoddy picture of the centre's display will have to do)

Seal Bay Conservation Park

Now of course I may be a tad biased but I can honestly say that Seal Bay is by far the best place to visit on the entire island.

This beautifully located beach on the south coast hosts one of the most wonderful creatures in the world – the Australian Sea Lion. With a population of approx. 14,000 and a species only endemic to Australia, Seal Bay provides the incredible opportunity to view a wild animal within its natural environment. Hosting a colony of 1,000 seals the national park enables visitors to take a guided tour on the very same beach as the sea lions and witness within 10metres their fantastic behaviour and interactions.

I have been so fortunate to be offered the chance to work at this fantastic place and experience not only a set of wonderful animals but also get to work with a set of wonderful people.  With the park offering 45 minute guided tours throughout day I can assure you that each guide provides their own unique tour full of fascinating facts and information. Every member of the Seal Bay team has such enthusiasm and respect for these animals. Their eagerness to continue to learn about the creatures they work with enables them to pretty much answer any question you throw at them.   

The Sea Lions themselves are such an incredible animal, one which continues to surprise and enthral you. Everyday that I have visited the beach I have seen something new from these gorgeous creatures.  Whether it be a seal body-boarding a wave on the beach, the boys puffing they chests up to one another (much like what you may see in the local pub) or a pup snuggling up to mum for warmth – they are an animal that constantly provide a great experience and wealth of wonderful photo opportunities.  

Within my time at Seal Bay so far, I have been so lucky to not only experience guided tours and the general inner workings of the park but have also been taken to areas of the beach that very few have been given the chance to do. One such trip was to assist in the counting of the colony and although this pushed fitness levels to places they had never been pushed before I was able to view even more stunning examples of the seals in their natural environment.

I can safely say that I 100% do not want to leave and am ignoring how quickly the days seem to be rushing by…..

Kangaroo Island

After having a great time in Adelaide I was now even more eager than ever to explore what Kangaroo Island had to offer. Boarding my incredibly early ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw I can safely say that KI did not see me looking my best when I arrived. However once on dry land I was quickly staggered by how much incredible scenery the island has to offer.

Initially fooled like many others I assumed the island would be relatively small and walkable in a day or so – this is very much untrue and I cannot stress how essential a car is to getting around the island. Therefore once picking up my lovely little Nissan Micra (of which my dad was a little disappointed as he imagined I would be driving some sort of huge 4x4) I soon discovered that a simple half hour drive on the island can provide you with stunning views of beaches, hills, fields, and many more. Wildlife is unfortunately rather prominent on the sides of the road also – I like to think they are all just taking a rather dangerous nap but I think we all know what has really happened. 

Now for the facts: Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third largest island and is said to have separated from the mainland around 10,000 years ago. Named by the British explorer Matthew Flinders in June 1802– Matt used a great deal of imagination in that there were a load of Western Grey Kangaroos at the time.  At 115km in length and with only a population of just over 4,400 there is a vast amount of the island that has remained beautifully untouched.

After a gorgeous drive from the ferry I arrived at my lovely little unit in Kingscote, the capital city of the island (a term I stress to be used loosely) and braced myself for what was sure to be a great adventure. 

Adelaide or Radelaide as I would later be told

After what seemed like a flight that went on for days (of which included an 11 hour delay, a 4 hour stay at Kuala Lumpar’s Marriott Hotel and possibly the scariest coach journey I have ever had) I finally arrived in Adelaide.

The first thing I must mention is that cannot recommend Adelaide YHA Hostel enough – having stayed in some very questionable hostels in Europe this one by far is one of the best I have ever stayed in. With lovely clean rooms and showers and with a wealth of communal facilities including kitchen, lounge area, TV rooms and ping pong (which at times can get incredibly tense) – it provides a wonderful atmosphere to meet new people and made my arrival in Australia so easy.

Adelaide is the capital city of South Australia and the fifth largest city in the country.  As a key part of what is also known as the festival state  - Adelaide is a city full of vibrancy, colour and always with something going on. With the major part of the city’s streets built in a grid formation, similar to NYC, even the person with the least sense of direction (myself included) would find it very difficult to get lost in this town. Although I only had a mere 5 days please see my list below of the 5 best things to do whilst in the city:

1)      Adelaide Botanical Gardens – Found just on the edge of the North Terrace the gardens boast beautiful views, perfect picnic settings and is free (which is always a winner)

2)      Adelaide Museum & Art Gallery – Found again just on the edge of the North Terrace both Museum and Gallery provide a wealth of information and knowledge on the states vast social, political, economic and artistic history. I particularly recommend going purely for the giant squid that stretches over 4 floors of the museum  - also did I mention they are both free to! (I really hope I’m not coming off cheap – I just really appreciate a freebie).

3)      Central Markets – Tucked away behind the YHA and found near china town the markets host a fantastic display of foods from around the world with tasters galore. I would whole heartedly go on an empty stomach and enjoy as much world cuisine as you can.

4)      Barossa Valley   - This is something I do not recommend going on with an empty stomach but highly suggest you take a tour  with no one else but ‘Taste of the Barossa Tours’. Picked up at your accommodation by possibly the man with the greatest name in the world – Dallas you are taken on a gorgeous tour of the vineyards throughout the Barossa Valley including driving over Jacob’s actual creek (who knew it was a real thing?!). Stopping off at 4 wineries – including a hearty and much needed lunch the trip is a great way to see the area and hosted by the nicest and most informative man ever.   

5)      Glenelg Beach – A mere 30 minute tram ride away provides sandy beaches and clear waters. Going at sunset is particularly beautiful and once you have enjoyed the view there are many bars and restaurants to satisfy your needs. 

Welcome....

Hey there….

So I have never written a blog before and therefore do hope the following information will prove interesting and/or informative. I have also never won a competition before until July 2012 when I received the most amazing phonecall informing that I had won a trip to Australia.

What took me 2 minutes on facebook lead to what I am sure will be one of the greatest experiences of my life. Last year, STA travel and South Australian Tourism ran a competition called Live like an Aussie – where 7 people were given the opportunity to win 7 different working holidays in 7 different locations in Australia. My dear friend Mary (who thankfully is still my friend) recommended I enter the completion online after having done so herself. I must confess I cannot remember the details of the other potential working holidays as I was too taken by the Kangaroo Island option which gave details on Seal Bay Conservation Park and provided the cutest photos of baby seals I had ever seen. Having never heard of it before and assuming a literal definition of its name to be what the island consisted – it looked like a paradise and I entered with very little hope.  So it was to my complete shock that I won and was given the incredible opportunity to fly to the other side of the world and ‘Live like an Aussie’ for 2 months in Kangaroo Island and work at Seal Bay.

I had very mixed emotions before I left – the most excitement however on further consultation with family members and friends (and after convincing them I had been given me all these wonderful things and I wasn’t going to end up in a ditch somewhere) I was given the following advice:

1)      Always check for deadly spiders before you use the toilet

2)      Watch out for Kangaroos as they do kick

3)      Sharks often attack

These as one can imagine did not fill me with much confidence but I endeavoured to think positive and not focus on any deadly animal attacks. I was however looking forward to an actual summer of sun compared those we have in England and overall the opportunity to discover a completely new place. I boarded my 10pm Flight at London Heathrow with a mixture of eagerness, anticipation, nervousness and overall excitement for what I hoped would be great on board entertainment.