Apart from the stunning beaches and vast wildlife, Kangaroo
Island is also steeped in history. A great place to explore some of the island’s
first beginnings is at one of the 3 lighthouses situated on the corners of KI.
Having already visited Cape du Couedic in my trip to Flinders Chase I thought
it was time I travelled to the other ends of the island to complete my
lighthouse trilogy.
Cape Willoughby
Now I firstly have to say that I may not have picked the bets
day to go visit a lighthouse as it was possibly one of the windiest days I had
ever experienced. On travelling in my adorable yet rather small Nissan micra
there were several times where I thought I might get blown away Wizard of Oz
style. The journey was also made even more frightening when not one but two
rather large kangaroos decided to cross the road as I was very nearly approaching
them – thankfully everyone left unscathed and I finally reached Cape
Willoughby.
Found on the most eastern point of the island and roughly
40K from Penneshaw, Cape Willoughby is the oldest lighthouse throughout South Australia.
Built in 1852, the 25 metre high stone tower was used to mark the treacherous
channel known as the Backstairs Passage. Having claimed many a shipwreck, it
overlooks the rather aptly titled Devils Kitchen. As in all the National Parks sites
on the island you will find lovely and extremely knowledge tour guides – that for
45mins will give you a delightful tour of the Lighthouse and a detailed explanation
of its history.
After enjoying your visit to the lighthouse there is also
the opportunity to visit one of the many cellar doors that can be found in the
surrounding areas of the Dudley Peninsula. Unfortunately travelling solo meant
I couldn’t personally partake in an afternoon tipple – but as long as you make
sure you are not the designated driver I very much recommend it.
Cape Borda
Having completed the east I then ventured west for Cape
Borda. Found in the very depths of the Ravine des Casoars wilderness protection
area the lighthouse is most commonly known for its unusual square design. As
the third oldest remaining lighthouse in Australia and with a fully functioning
cannon as with all the sites on the island - this continues to be an
opportunity to further explore KI’s vast history.
On recommendation from two lovely ladies at Seal Bay, I was
advised that the best way to experience all what Cape Borda had to offer was to
stay overnight. With the area surrounded in gorgeous wilderness and with a
variety of hikes and walks available, a mere day trip would simply not be
enough. Therefore, having done half the drive there on the way to work I set
off for my lighthouse weekend away.
On arriving at the site I was greeted by a very sweet man named
Mike who not only let me fire the cannon – something which I initially thought
was a joke – but also informed that I would be the only person staying there
that night. Given the responsibility as lighthouse keeper I slowly began to
realise that I would be the only person staying in this extremely remote and
isolated are for a whole night. With what was turning out to sound like the
plotline for a scary movie I decided to tackle a few hikes and take my mind off
what the night may bring.
As someone with a very very basic level of fitness and with
no experience of hiking I did enter Harvey’s Return with slight trepidation.
However I was advised by signs that it was a moderate hike so I took comfort in
this. Unfortunately, the moderate rating was a little misjudged as scaling down
the old hill where supplies were winched up for lighthouse keepers was fine –
climbing back up not so fun. The hike does in fact take you out to a beautiful
section of Scott’s Cove and if your heart and calves are up for it – well worth
a try.
On returning back to my duties as lighthouse keeper I was
some ways put at ease to find two kangaroos not too far from my hut. I came to
think of them as my roommates for the night and although if in danger they
probably wouldn’t be much help it was nice to know I was completely alone.
Surviving the night I was braced with confidence for next
two hikes ahead. The Ravine des Casoars hike can be found just before Cape
Borda and is a 3 hour trek into the wilderness. With some regret that I hadn’t
actually ever seen an episode of Bear Grylls I entered the unknown. The hike is
actually a beautiful walk through varying terrain and ending in a gorgeous view
of the coastline. With hidden caves also found at the very end I recommend
bringing a torch for further exploring as opposed to the candle and matches I
was given back at the lighthouse. It is definitely
an unnervingly feeling going it alone but one which actually ultimately gives
you a great sense of pride and achievement in one’s own accomplishments –
regardless of how small they actually be.
My second hike was Billy Goats Falls – found just as enter
the Ravine des Casoars road off the playford highway. Again another steep
incline which I was quickly realising I was not a fan of but again equally
stunning wildlife. Unfortunately it hadn’t rained in quite a while and there was
no actual waterfall to view. I did, however, see my first echnida of my trip to
KI and apparently as a rare animal to find I was pretty happy with my Attenborough
style skills.
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